Ellergrube is a striking steep terraced site of pure blue slate. The ungrafted vines here are 90-100-plus years old and their little berries are concentrated with minerality and intensity. The juice undergoes a 24-hour maceration before going into old tonneau to encourage a little active air exchange. This wine is made to mature, and will be stunning for years to come.
Weiser-Kunstler is a young Mosel estate farming ancient sites. Late-19th century maps of the most prestigious vineyards classify Weiser-Kunstler’s top sites – Steffensberg, Gaispfad and Ellergrub – all “Grand Cru.” And while this blossoming estate cannot claim Grosses Gewaches on the technicality of not being a member of the VDP group, they produce some of the Mosel's very finest dry, grand cru wines.
This rare stretch of terroir is unlike any other in the Mosel. The very old, traditional terraces are intact; the vines are 80-100 year-old ungrafted Riesling, densely planted on very craggy, steep slate slopes. And so the character of the wines is unlike any other. They do not boast the tropics of the Piesporter amphitheater or the abundant flora of the grand Braunberger hills. Instead the quieter, cooler tones of these sites emphasize pure minerality, salinity and sheer chalkiness. I can think of no other wines that so deftly balance delicacy, ferocity and pure minerality.
Konstantin Weiser and Alexandra Kunstler meticulously farm their 3 hectares (think the size of Willi Schaefer) and these stunning dry wines are the prime selections of wine from the best grapes. As you can imagine, quantity is extremely limited for all these bottlings.
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